6X12 and 7X14 pics please.

as most of you know, I just got a 6X12 CarMate. I was hoping that people could post pics of where you put your E tracks and/or D loops. I have to tile mine first...but I want to see what other options i have! Thanks in advance!

[Red Rider]

Here's the only decent pic of my trailer.

Pic courtesy of Conq.

[NinerPilot]

[threadjack]
I love that picture Red... Mainly because it shows my chit in there too....
[/threadjack]

Originally Posted by Red Rider

Here's the only decent pic of my trailer.

Pic courtesy of Conq.

That is what i am thinking about doing pretty much. Do you ever have two in there? Also do your chocks go into a E track? That style does not look too bad. I would like one that I can remove easy for when I use the trailer for other things.

Did you attach the E tracks with sheet rock screws, or did you drill and bolt them all the way though the floor?

[ConqSoft]

Originally Posted by showmethebombs

Did you attach the E tracks with sheet rock screws, or did you drill and bolt them all the way though the floor?

Definately bolt them all the way through (wheel chocks as well). Put a wide washer on the bottom to spread out the pressure...

[Red Rider]

I used 3/4" lag screws through every other hole in the e-track. I gaurantee those suckers aren't going to move. The Pit-Bull stands came with mounting hardware that does bolt through the floor. That pic doesn't show the third row of track I installed down the middle. I haul two 929's with this setup all the time. The shelf is removable and slides on top of the panel across the front to keep all my gear (stands, tool chest, leathers) from moving around during transport. When I need to use the trailer to haul furniture, etc., both panels are removed, along with my gear, to maximize the cargo space.

[Red Rider]

Originally Posted by NinerPilot

[threadjack]
I love that picture Red... Mainly because it shows my chit in there too....
[/threadjack]

yeah...we should call it "helmets of the past"! I probably spend more time in that trailer than I want to admit.

ok, all this information is helping me quite a bit!

I checked this joint near me that had E Tracks 5' for 25.00 each, and chocks for 75.00 each (chrome). To me that seems kind of high. Bottom line, I need to get this stuff at some point before I haul anything in the trailer. So I need to find the cheapest/best place around.

Red, do you have a pic with all three E tracks in? I like the idea of the shelf you made...I will have to do somethign like that. Did you use 3/4 or 1/2 plywood?

[ConqSoft]

Originally Posted by showmethebombs

ok, all this information is helping me quite a bit!

I checked this joint near me that had E Tracks 5' for 25.00 each, and chocks for 75.00 each (chrome). To me that seems kind of high. Bottom line, I need to get this stuff at some point before I haul anything in the trailer. So I need to find the cheapest/best place around.

Red, do you have a pic with all three E tracks in? I like the idea of the shelf you made...I will have to do somethign like that. Did you use 3/4 or 1/2 plywood?

Pit-Bull chocks are only $49.95. Get those before you get some $75 chrome ones.

[Red Rider]

Originally Posted by showmethebombs

ok, all this information is helping me quite a bit!

I checked this joint near me that had E Tracks 5' for 25.00 each, and chocks for 75.00 each (chrome). To me that seems kind of high. Bottom line, I need to get this stuff at some point before I haul anything in the trailer. So I need to find the cheapest/best place around.

Red, do you have a pic with all three E tracks in? I like the idea of the shelf you made...I will have to do somethign like that. Did you use 3/4 or 1/2 plywood?

I don't have any other pics at the moment...I'll see what I can do when I get home. I bought my e-track in 30" lengths and used only one for the center. I can't remember the price I paid for all the stuff, but I bought it here. Be careful of the chrome (Pingel?) chocks as the rotors on 929's come REAL close to hitting. The Pit-Bulls have lots of clearance.

The shelf was made out 1/2 plywood. I got the finished grade (maple?) that has a much nicer surface than construction grade. I used a couple of L-brackets to mount the shelf to the wall and two tiedowns to support it from the roof of the trailer. Works really well I might add.

All this really helps! Thanks a million guys. I will check out the pit bull chocks tonight...i was not really feeling the chrome ones anywho. The E tracks were $25.00 for 4 feet...sorry. Then I will just need the peice that goes into the tracks.

Red, if you could take some pics, that would rock! It will let me start working up the layout. PS that link is where I bought my trailer!

http://www.s-line.com/products/track.htm
the best track I have ever used. cheaper too.

Definitely get the Pitbull chocks. Then you can be 100% sure that your rotors won't hit them. I used self-tapping metal screws to put the e-track in, if it lined up with a metal support under the trailer, and bolted all the way through the floor with big washers otherwise. If you want your chocks to be removable, the best set-up I know of is to get these brackets from Performance Trailers (www.traileroutlet.com). They designed and patented these brackets, you can't get them anywhere else. They attach to whatever chock you purchase, then they clip into the e-track. They have to clip in a piece of e-track running horizontal, though. I have vertical pieces running the length of the trailer for the straps, with a piece of track running horizontally mounted in between the long vertical pieces. I'll try to get pics of mine soon. I've found that other removable "pop chocks" tend to remove themselves at inopportune times.

edit: when I refer to horizontal, it's the same type of e-track that you'll mount vertically. They do make vertical and horizontal e-track, but I was using those terms to describe how it's mounted only. You'll want horizontal e-track.

[Red Rider]

Originally Posted by showmethebombs

All this really helps! Thanks a million guys. I will check out the pit bull chocks tonight...i was not really feeling the chrome ones anywho. The E tracks were $25.00 for 4 feet...sorry. Then I will just need the peice that goes into the tracks.

Red, if you could take some pics, that would rock! It will let me start working up the layout. PS that link is where I bought my trailer!

I'll see what I can do. Conq used to have some pics of his trailer with e-track set up for 2 bikes (his and Flashers) that I used for ideas when setting up mine.

edit: $25 for 4 feet? That link I posted has 5 foot sections for $10.95.

Kinda funny how they all add up to being a @#%^!% load of money!

Did you all put bolts through evey...say 4 holes on the Etracks? Or did you use every single one?

[tigerblade]

I have screws holding down my e-track about every other hole or so. I do think bolting a few places all the way through would be the way to go and I'll probably do that this winter. I'm not too happy with my pop-chocks, as they seem to slide out too easily. It is nice to be able to remove them when we're moving around the trailer during a race weekend, but I'd like them to lock in more securely. They were cheap ones from LP, so you get what you pay for.

I used every other hole and grade 8 cap top fasteners. Drilled throoug the plywood and used fender washers with lock nuts on the bottom

Originally Posted by figment

I used every other hole and grade 8 cap top fasteners. Drilled throoug the plywood and used fender washers with lock nuts on the bottom

Sold, that was my plan too.

Originally Posted by figment

I used every other hole and grade 8 cap top fasteners. Drilled throoug the plywood and used fender washers with lock nuts on the bottom

You might not want to use 8s. The difference between a grade 8 and 5 is obviously hardness. This however can work against you on shear strength since the 8 is more brittle. Thus a grade 8 is great for high strength low shear use such as a head bolt but is not always the best pick. Plus cost delta of an 8.

Originally Posted by sheepofblue

You might not want to use 8s. The difference between a grade 8 and 5 is obviously hardness. This however can work against you on shear strength since the 8 is more brittle. Thus a grade 8 is great for high strength low shear use such as a head bolt but is not always the best pick. Plus cost delta of an 8.

Maybe I will just use some 8" Staples. I am glad I have not gone to the store yet. What has the majority used here?