Time to argue about those rear tie-downs...

[Pete]

I come from the school of attaching the rear straps to points forward, in the same direction as the front tie-downs; however, in Sport Rider a few months ago, they advise attaching them to points rearward, in the opposite direction of the front tie-downs. I have seen both methods used here and elsewhere.

My line of thinking was that if the front strap(s) failed, the rear straps would continue to hold the bike into the wheel chock, lessening the chances of the bike tipping over.

What say you?

I run my rear ties in the opposite direction and really only rely on them to stead the bike laterally. I don't compress the rear shock alot, not quite as much as the fork anyway - my .02 worth.

+1 If a front strap fails the rear pulls it into the chock. Ever seen someone drive over a bump with the straps going in both directions? You almost freak out as the bike moves back and forth over 6in!!

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Chain

I run my rear ties in the opposite direction and really only rely on them to stead the bike laterally.

Then why not run them forward to gain the added security against front strap failure? That's what I'm trying to get at. Telling me how you do it without giving any valid reason is just wasting space in my thread.

I've seen it work fine in either direction. Pulling the rear ones to the front may buy you some time until you notice the front one has come loose or broken. Another point: if you pull the back ones too tight in the opposite direction, you'll actually be pulling the bike out of the chock. I've seen that happen, too. Personally, if I were using a 4 strap method, I'd pull all 4 forward. I use a 2 strap method, however. One on each side of the bike, low and towards the middle of the bike. (on the 929 I use the forward most part of the subframe). Then both get pulled forward about 45 degrees. Wheel must be in a chock. Rock solid, and doesn't tweek down on the forks, as it compresses both front and rear. I check the straps every time to make sure they are in perfect shape. Got the tip from someone who knew someone who transported $30k race bikes and that was the method they used. Works awesome, but isn't possible on some bikes.

Originally Posted by Pete

Then why not run them forward to gain the added security against front strap failure? That's what I'm trying to get at. Telling me how you do it without giving any valid reason is just wasting space in my thread.

Eh, sorry dude.

My tie-down points are governed not as much by my own discretion as where they are in the bed of my pickup. And I don't use a wheel chock. Call me crazy, but it works for me.

With that, I'll depart this thread. I'm no expert on this sh*t anyway.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Chain

With that, I'll depart this thread. I'm no expert on this sh*t anyway.

Don't be a pussy, you know I was just yankin' yer "chain".

[Pete]

Originally Posted by HondaGalToo

I've seen it work fine in either direction. Pulling the rear ones to the front may buy you some time until you notice the front one has come loose or broken. Another point: if you pull the back ones too tight in the opposite direction, you'll actually be pulling the bike out of the chock. I've seen that happen, too. Personally, if I were using a 4 strap method, I'd pull all 4 forward. I use a 2 strap method, however. One on each side of the bike, low and towards the middle of the bike. (on the 929 I use the forward most part of the subframe). Then both get pulled forward about 45 degrees. Wheel must be in a chock. Rock solid, and doesn't tweek down on the forks, as it compresses both front and rear. I check the straps every time to make sure they are in perfect shape. Got the tip from someone who knew someone who transported $30k race bikes and that was the method they used. Works awesome, but isn't possible on some bikes.

Recalling this same advice from your previous posts, I need to see if your two-strap method is possible on my 600rr.

Originally Posted by Pete

Don't be a pussy, you know I was just yankin' yer "chain".

How 'bout I wrap a tie-down to your nuts and...

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Chain

How 'bout I wrap a tie-down to your nuts and...

Better make it a heavy-duty ratchet strap!

I shoulda seen that one coming.

On a naked bike or dirt bike, I anchor the front tiedowns to the fork-tube just above the lower triple clamp, and run laterally and forward to the anchor-points. This provides for a greater angle of the strap to the tie-down point, usually, and that's good for stability. This works with some sport-bike fairings but not most.
For the rear I try to get the pull as neutral (vertical) as possible to simply secure the rear end.

[luvtolean]

Always ran them back, and not had a problem. But, I don't feel strongly enough about it to argue the point.

Originally Posted by Pete

Recalling this same advice from your previous posts, I need to see if your two-strap method is possible on my 600rr.

Hmmm. Can't use it on HG's 954, because they covered up all the subframe bars with plastic. We tie the front of hers at the lower triple, then tie the back near the footpegs, all 4 straps pulling forward.

hell, after my incident with the straps on the way to Jennings I just put down the side stand and go for it that way, one is just as reliable as the next

Originally Posted by bubba

hell, after my incident with the straps on the way to Jennings I just put down the side stand and go for it that way, one is just as reliable as the next

Now, now. After tying your bike down for your trip home using my 2 strap method and providing you with some good quality Ancra tiedowns (not those crappy cheap ones you got from the Home Depot), your bike trailered just fine all the way back to NJ, now didn't it?

[tigerblade]

All points forward for me.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by BrianG

On a naked bike or dirt bike, I anchor the front tiedowns to the fork-tube just above the lower triple clamp, and run laterally and forward to the anchor-points. This provides for a greater angle of the strap to the tie-down point, usually, and that's good for stability. This works with some sport-bike fairings but not most.
For the rear I try to get the pull as neutral (vertical) as possible to simply secure the rear end.

Whatever, just make sure you have a spare bike for me if I make it back up to Banff during the Summer!

I think this thread is a smutty little troll....but I'll bite...

Whether you use 2, 4, 3, 7... whatever....all straps should vector into the chock...if not the system is statically indeterminate and thus more prone to coming loose.....




BTW...I once heard TB mention that Pete in assless chaps was the only wheel chock he needed, and the straps were optional....more like a Baxley I guess......

[Red Rider]

Originally Posted by Baketech

BTW...I once heard TB mention that Pete in assless chaps was the only wheel chock he needed, and the straps were optional....more like a Baxley I guess......

ahh yes...Bake is back in true form!