Cleaning Titanium

Okay...I did find an acceptable use for WD-40 this morning...

Notice I am using the Nascar endorsed version which is far superior to the standard stuff you get...
My Kaiser blade (some call it a sling blade, I call it a Kaiser blade) was actually faster off of the corners after application... In fact so fast that I had to dial in a little wedge to keep it from getting loose on the smaller saplings...

Haarrrrummpf! I like musturd on my french fries.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Baketech

My Kaiser blade (some call it a sling blade, I call it a Kaiser blade) was actually faster off of the corners after application... In fact so fast that I had to dial in a little wedge to keep it from getting loose on the smaller saplings...

LMFAO!!!

WD-40 is still used in air craft maintenance even to remove bolts in jet engine hot sections although there are better products. TI is not affected by this stuff. Check this out Welcome to WD-40 * About Us: Our Historyhttp://wd40.com/AboutUs/gifs/hdr_history_fasin.gif
In 1953, a fledgling company called Rocket Chemical Company and its staff of three set out to create a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry, in a small lab in San Diego, California

Many times I use solvents to clean unpainted, non-clear coated METAL parts.

This is what i've found in 15 years of using various solvents.

Nail Polish remover - good for just about jack crap, don't even bother.

Paint Thinner - works to remove sticky gunk, but leaves a slight clear residue behind. Very flamable.

Laquer Thinner - works to remove sticky gunk and marks, oil from fingerprints. It leaves behind a very very slight amount of residue invisible to the eye and won't matter unless you plan on painting over the surface the residue is compatible (ok) with most primers but not all primers. Fast evaporation time. Very flamable.

Denatured Alcohol - works on some painted surfaces, but always test an area before using it. NOT for use on clearcoats. Do not rub very hard on a painted surface with it, rub lightly and works well. Removes grease, scuffs, fingerprints. The invisible residue left behind is not compatible with all primers/paints. Fast evaporation time. Very flamable, and you can't see the flame because it's alcohol.

Acetone - removes almost any mark and dry paint if you rub on it enough, or spill it on paint and it's ruined. Wear chemical resistant gloves because it causes central nervous system damage over time. Removes fingerprints and oil with ease. Highly flamable. Awesome stuff though. Fastest evaporation of all these solvents is acetone.

Mineral Spirits - Leaves behind a definate oily residue that cannot be painted or primered over. Good for cleaning up paint spills. Good for cleaning up paint guns after each use. If using to clean up a paint gun, run some laquer thinner through the gun before using it to spray paint etc. Mineral spirts will remove some scuff marks - wash with soapy water after. Slow evaporation time. Flamable.

Akrapovic Exhaust Systems FAQ


Just check the website how to clean it.. Make sense???

Originally Posted by Baketech

WD40.... Why would you "clean" a greasy fingerprint with something oily....

Umm.. ever heard the often used saying "Like disolves like" Hang out in any science lab for a length of time and you soon will or even cast your memory back to high scholl if thats not too much of a stretch....

The only thing that I know of that will hurt Ti is a drycleaning solvent called "trichlorothane" (a degeraser used in industrial, aviation) and it has been pretty-much replaced by trichloroethylene because of ozone layer nastiness.
When the titanium is heated, the "trich" reacts with the metal and causes hydrogen embrittlement. You can't see it but it makes the Ti eventually crack.

i used some purple power to clean my ti arata can. at work we use alcohol to clean fingerprints and all other debri from it before we weld it. so acitone and alcohol will most likely be the best two cleaners. purple power and simple green will work as long as you get the residue off

Uhmm .... you guys know this thread is over 2 years old and most of the original posters aren't regulars hear anymore, don't you?

yeah i saw that after i posted. i am a regular on the other site where they migrated to as well

Originally Posted by Quick 26

yeah i saw that after i posted. i am a regular on the other site where they migrated to as well

Just a heads up for those who might be waiting for comments from the originals

As for cleaning, my phylosophy is hit it with a hose about twice a year. If it doesn't wash off, it adds character
(to bring it back to topic )

Originally Posted by gt702

Uhmm .... you guys know this thread is over 2 years old and most of the original posters aren't regulars hear anymore, don't you?

Yeah but we're here now and I personally think it is nice to be able to provide people with broad ranges of opinion for them to be able to search. Dontcha think?
Thanks though

Originally Posted by socbr

Yeah but we're here now and I personally think it is nice to be able to provide people with broad ranges of opinion for them to be able to search. Dontcha think?
Thanks though

This is me - You last visited: 03-31-2006

I know, I know but hey you guys were always on my mind.

After my gf cleaned my exhaust it was tarnished sort of and she was scared of how upset I would get. It was brand new and as we all know Arata isn't exactly cheap but I was able to get it out/off with eagle one polish fabric without harm and she was safe from an almost certain ass chewing. I will have to try the WD-40 though next time I'm home. Thanks